Planting a Rose Garden

There are so many classes of roses. There are species, climbing, shrub and old garden roses, all of which are fairly hardy and easier to grow. Then there are the Floribundas, grandiforas, and hybrid teas, which require a little more work to succeed but are known for their large flowers and long blooming periods.

How do I choose the best location for my rose garden?

Before you head to the garden center make sure that your plot receives enough sunlight and that you have enough space to support these flowers. Roses require a minimum of 6 hours of full sun per day to thrive, and need to be planted away from mature trees and shrubs at least twice the diameter of the established plants so that the roses don’t have to compete for water. To reduce the chance of disease, plan for good air circulation between your rosebushes. If you have a choice it’s better to plant your rosebushes where they will receive the morning sun rather than the afternoon sun because you want the sun to dry the morning dew off of your rosebushes as soon as possible to reduce the risk of disease.

 

 

What should I look for when buying roses?

When purchasing roses be sure of your source and what you are paying for. The bark should be green with no blackening. There should be no evidence of bark shriveling. The plant should have a well-developed, strong, creamy white root system with many young feeder roots.


When and how should I prepare a new rose bed?

The best time to prepare your new rose bed is in the fall. Preparing your rose plot in the fall gives any soil amendments such as peat moss or manure time to work prior to planting. Roses can grow in almost any soil but most cannot tolerate poor drainage or poor aeration. If your soil is claylike consider loosening it with a shovel down to 18 inches below the planting depth. This will break up some of the clay aggregates and create some air spaces within the soil. If you soil is sandy mix it with ¼ part composted cow manure and ¼ part peat moss. Work in some gypsum (15 to 20 pounds per 100 square feet). Bone meal (15 pounds per 100 square feet) will ensure enough phosphorus for good root growth in the spring.

How do I feed my roses?

For newly planted roses wait until after the first blooming cycle ends so that you don’t damage young plants before they have a chance to get established. For roses that are on their second growing season or older start feeding in early spring about 4 to 6 weeks before the first blooms. In both cases continue to feed once a month with a slow-release food until four to six weeks before the last bloom cycle. This will occur in late summer (mid- to late August) in most parts of the country
How do I keep my roses healthy?

Protecting my roses

The biggest enemies roses’ face are aphids, a type of insect, as well as powdery mildew and black spot, which are both fungal diseases. The best defense is a good preventive program. One technique is to apply a granular systemic insecticide (which usually contains a plant fertilizer as well) in late spring. Then once temperatures reach 85 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity starts to build, you can spray your roses with a fungicide every 10 to 14 days. It’s also important to keep water off the foliage and remove any debris from around your plants to maintain good air circulation.

Can I cut some of the roses from my garden and take them indoors?
Yes, find a vase, clean it with soap, water and a 10 percent bleach solution to prevent disease. With a sharp pair of pruning shears cut each stem at a 45-degree angle, making sure that the stem is long enough to allow trimming later. Remove any leaves that will be below the water level to prevent disease, but leave those that will be above the water to ensure that the stem will take up water. Make a fresh 45-degree cut at the final stem length and place the stem into the vase. Add a good floral preservative and fill the vase with warm water. Your roses should last a good week or more.

How do I prepare my roses for winter?


To prepare your roses for winter you should mound up to 12 inches of soil around the rose canes. After the temperature has consistently fallen below freezing, you should add another layer of protection such as leaves, wood chips or pine straw. You will need to remove this protective layer in the spring after the last frost to help prevent disease and give the roses good air circulation.

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